Insert wire ends into butt splice. Crimp butt splice. Slide heat shrink tubing over butt splice. Installation: Connect wires one at a time and install heat shrink tubing before proceeding to the next wire, refer to diagram. Connect all other wires leaving the Red power wires for last to prevent short circuits during installation. Splicing: Splice or join individual wires per the diagram. Slide heat shrink tubing over the splices to prevent shorts. Do not seal splices until the installation is finished and has been tested.
Earlier versions of these engines typically have a single fuel pump where a FloScan system can be used. International leaders in fuel flow technology. Our Products. Our Price List. Our Price List Discount Sheet PDF Manual Downloads. Useful search engines don't care about capitalization.
The goal is always proper spelling, so corrections are appreciated. It is particularly important that key words in articles be spelled correctly. I finally got back to the boat to check the tach and what I found was that the tach was set to 5 which is supposed to be the proper setting for a 12 pole motor.
Which the Mercury HP 4-stroke motor is. My friend fixed a problem that was causing the throttle arm to not reach it's full potential it was hitting the radio knob and took the boat for another run. This time with a different GPS. The motor has a 2. Given those parameters the prop calculator determined that slip was I know the Gear ratio is correct. I know the prop pitch is correct because I had that prop on my boat.
My boat runs a Mercury 75 HP 2-stroke with a 2. Checking the prop calculator with those parameters RPM, 2. The speed has been checked with two GPS devices. So that leaves the tach. The question is do I have my friend return the tach to the factory or start trying different pole settings until the reading is more realistic?
I'd try the setting for "6" and see what results you get. If there is no significance to the numbers, they should have used letters to denote the positions. In the rest of the world, a tachometer setting for poles is usually the position marked 6, because the "6" has some significance. Here the legends appear to have no meaning. Set it the way FloScan instructs, dumb as it may seem. By the way, how many positions are available on the tachometer calibration switch settings? If FloScan had named the fifth setting "4", I would agree that is was a dumb choice, but, mercifully, they did not.
The switch is a common, off-the-shelf switch that already has the legends marked on the switch using hexadecimal notation, 0 to F. This restores their standing with me to its prior high ground location. I also suspect the switch likely does not have a stop, so it is hard to assign a starting position to it, other than perhaps we could agree on the zeroth position as the first position.
Could we agree on that? If so, please note the time. Switch position "5" is the fifth position that is used. Now, before you drag this thread any further into the weeds, please explain to us how this pedantic sidebar discussion of the naming of the red switch settings is relevant to the accuracy of this FloScan instrument. I don't mean to drag the thread into the weeds. If no one knows the precise number of poles in the alternator, I suggest that an alternative method of getting the tachometer calibrated might be to try a different setting and see if it gives more reasonable data.
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